Mull (Page Two)

The only other road out of Tobermory is the B8073, which starts with a sudden climb up and around the back of the town. At one point there is an excellent view looking down on the town and it's colourful houses with the Sound and mountain backdrop.

This is a 'B' road that tries hard to pretend it is in fact a 'C' road and some careful driving is required as it twists, climbs and drops quite readily. The first hard drop is on approaching the end of loch Mishnish (on your left). This will give you a lesson what to expect as you venture on.

Dervaig Village

On past the first tiny hamlet (Achnadris), which has a sharp curve and then one more tight curve until you come to Dervaig Village. The road junction to the left is the 'C' road that left the main A848 back at Arnos.

The village sits at the head of narrow Loch a' Chumhainn. A tiny huddle of cottages with, surprisingly a small Theatre, which is said to put on quite excellent performances.  The tall stone pencil-shaped tower is in fact an 18th century church, which was rebuilt at the start of this (20th) century.

Ceilidhs are held at the village hall. Ceilidh (kay-lee) is Gaelic for, a gathering. I only stopped for a few minutes but liked the atmosphere of this quiet little village.

Historical Tower at Dervaig

As you leave the village a 'C' road cuts off of the left going directly to Achlek a Loch Tuath. Staying with the B8073 you now turn slightly north-west alongside the loch for half a mile or so, then west for a couple of miles twisting and turning on the narrow road and then drop into Calgary. The well known Canadian city is called after his small village.

Calgary Bay has nice sands and is safe for children. It has a solid wall of rock as a background. The road takes you right onto the beach.

 
Calgary Beach and the Waterfall close by

The road then continues on and over Treshnish Point, past the hamlet of Ensay with another steep drop a grand over Loch Tuath (North Loch) and the islands of Gometra and Ulva (larger) out in the bay. The road curves around loch Tuath with another drop approaching Kininan and then half a mile to Achlek, where the 'C' road from Dervaig joins the B8073. There is another heavy drop between here and Ballygown and continues to Laganulva Oskamull, where a short track runs down to the lochside with a pleasant setting and views over to Ulva. The Isle of Staffa can be made out, in the background, if the weather is clear enough.

Beyond Oskamull there is sharp climb a mile before Killemore then around Loch Keil with the island of Eorsa out in the center of the loch and far across on the other side of Mull the B8035 wanders southwards on its way to the enter of Mull.

You now curve around the final stretch, passing Killichronan and then meeting the junction with the 80356 to Salan, on the A848 from Craignure and, in this case, the return to Tobermory for refreshments and a night's rest. In evening light the A848 has some really fine soft light views and, possibly at sunset, before reaching Tobermory.

Day Two

Next morning I left Tobermory in sunlight but by the time I reached Salan it had turned quite rainy. I turned onto the B8035 at Salan and headed south. Just past the junction with the B8073 the skies opened up. I tried to drive it out, but approaching Gruline it got worse and I started to look for shelter. I noticed an opening leading to a large barn with the door open so made a split second decision to take a chance and shelter there.

As I slowly drove up to the doorway I suddenly came face to face with a man. I hastely explained myself and was surprised to receive a very friendly welcome. We talked for a while and it was obvious the rain had set in for a time. He invited me into the house for refreshments and also met his wife. It turned out that he was a retired doctor from Manchester and owned this bungalow as a holiday home and stayed on the Island throughout the summer. We enjoyed a meal including fresh Crab and he mentioned that he would soon be going out on the loch for the morning search of his lobster pots. As it turned out they invited me to go and I found it irresistible and went along.

We spent a good hour out on the loch in a 15ft motorised rowing type boat. We checked numerous areas and while the cloud was very low the rain stayed thin and/or stopped and there are some nice views all around the loch and back towards the house and landing. I had my camera with me and got some worthwhile 'record' shots including some of these two very friendly people.

Gillanotts. Taken from the boat on the Loch

My newley found friends' house from the Loch

As it turned out it was well into the afternoon before I got away and still had a long journey if I wished to go to Fionnphort and possibly crossing to Iona, and get back to Tobermory at a reasonable time. Thankfully the weather brightened up and I managed to get some nice pictures.

Enroute from Salen with the Isand of Ulva in the background

A pretty little bay by the roadside with the Island of Ulva in the background

From Gruline the road follows the south shore of Loch na Keil, on past Knock to Derryguaig with the reverse view of the small island of Eorsa overlooking the mountain road from Calgary. There is an excellent picturesque scene as you curve around the headland with high ragged cliffs against the Islets of Samalan and Inch Kenneth.

And on to the small dwellings of Balanahard (The high walls). Then to Griburn. You next cut across the Ardmeanach peninsula through Glen Seilisdeir and 2-3 miles on curve and drop on the A849 to Fionnphort over the other side on the Ross of Mull.

You then turn northeastwards around the head of the loch to the junction with the A849, which has come though Glen More, for Craignure. On this curve stop where the small river meets the road. There is a nice picture to be had here with the bridge, fast flowing water and the majestic background of Glen More (Ben More (3171').

The Ross of Mull is a narrow strip of land. If flat you would view the sea on both sides, but it has a wall of mountains hiding the south side. You travel over plain scenery for 20 miles until reaching the village of Bunessan which is set in a curve beside Loch na Lathaich (the broad loch) with a fine view across Loch Scridain It is a reasonable sized village with shops and a school.

The River --- sand twin-arch bridge Looking towards Bunessan

 
Rustling watrs of the River --- with Ben More in the background

Lonely Croft below Ben More

Lochans in Glen More

On the road from Fionphort to Craignure, via Glen More

With time getting on and the light failing I pushed on to Fionnphort just glancing at the numerous small hamlets I passed through and reached Fionnphort around 4.00 just in time to see the last ferry (due to the weather and lack of customers) leave for Iona. I wasn't too disappointed as the weather was very poor and while I took a few pictures of Iona with a telephoto lens, they were little more than record shots. I then decided to make my way back.

By the time I got back to the head of Loch Scridain with the junction of the B8035 the weather had improved considerable and I decide to take the long way through Glen More and try to see Duart Castle near Craignure.

Glen More was magnificent. A High, lonely and wild Glen. I saw a Golden Eagle and a nicely antlered Deer during the drive. There is not one dwelling in the 11 miles until the first small village at Strathcoil, where a 'C' road goes to Croggan at the mouth of loch Spelve then the next at Auchnacraig and Lochdonhead by Loch Don (Gaelic Donn = Brown).

About quarter a beyond you get the first view of Duart castle in the distance. A track to the right leads to the castle grounds. I parked in the proper place and walked up the path to the Castle, took a little look around it and snapped a couple pictures, but on approaching the main gate a woman told me to go away, in no uncertain manner, as they were closed. I was so shocked I didn't even reply and walked back to my bike and left. So that was all I got to see of Duart castle. At least I managed to notice the gardens were nicely laid out in an Italian style with nice little statues and I would have liked to have seen more.

At Craignure I had a look, at the pier. It is was quite new, having been built and opened in the 60's, shortening the journey considerable for motorists who didn't wish to go directly to Tobermory, as they did previously. There was a timber yard, that looked quite busy and recently a narrow gauge steam railway was built just along from the pier and has brought some interest in an otherwise rather empty and uninteresting spot.

My main thought now was to get back to the digs for a wash and change and find somewhere
for a meal. Then an early night as next morning I had to get back to Craignure and over to Oban for the ferry to the Outer Hebridies and The Isle of Barra.

 That's another story.... First, we shall go to Iona, with pictures from my visit in the 1990's on a tour from Oban.......