AN T-EILEAN SGITHANACH
(The Isle of Skye)(Page 1 of 4)
There is so much to write about Skye, whatever the weather. I shall name key places and some points of interest starting at Kyleakin, and northward. Then going south from Broadford to the ferry for Mallaig at Ardvassar in the Sound Of Sleat.
Skye has two names, the Gaelic, An t-Eilean Sgithanach, meaning the 'Wing-shaped' island and, Eillean Ceo, the Norse for, the 'Misty' Island. In 2006 the Island was officially named 'Eilean Ceo'.
Memories of the Kyle Of Lochalsh Ferry. Replaced by the
Skye Bridge. Right: Lochalsh Hotel
The Kyle Of Lochalsh to Kyleakan Ferry heading for
Skye.
View Of Kyle Of Lochalsh from the ferry
Kyleakin: The first village on Skye takes it's name from two Gaelic words, Coal = Narrow and Hacon (King Hacon of Norway) and obviously means King Hacon`s narrow or straight". It was from Castle Moel that a princess stretched a chain across the 'narrows' charging boats a toll to pass. Lochalsh is a highway to the Atlantic at Mallaig through the Sound of Slate.
The ruined Castle Moel juts out into Loch Alsh
This is a pleasant stop with cafes, gift shops and a small harbour. The ruin of Castle Moal stand proud and, in the right lighting conditions in strong contrast, to the wall of mountains behind. It is always under threat of crumbling and continual effort is made to keep it together. Boat trips to visit Seals are run throughout the summer. Eilean Ban (Fair Island) just off shore, with its white lighthouse is where the writer, Gavin Maxwell lived for a time. He and Tarka (the Otter) are buried at Sandaig Bay, south of Glen Elg in the Sound of Slate.
A grand all round panoramic view can be had by walking up to the War Memorial, with the spanse of Loch Alsh far to the south at Dornish and Northwards along the Skye coastline towards Portree with Eilean Ban just off the mainland. Or at least did, as the horizon of this grand view is now sliced by the outline of the new Skye Bridge which, I am sure will make visitors hurry northwards on the A850 and on towards Broadford village.
On the road to Broadford, just beyond the airport, with Ben
a' Cailleach in the distance
Broadford: The Crofting village is actually in three parts as you drive through it. I can recommend Broadford Hotel but even if you only use the numerous B&B facilities there is still plenty of atmosphere. There is a few small shops, Post Office (Office a' Phost) and a fish & chip shop and restaurant for good food. The view across Loch Broadford to the Applecross Peninsula is magnificent day or night. It is here that Bonnie Prince Charlie first blended what is known today as Drambuie (Golden Drink) whisky (Uisge-Beath).
Broadford Bay & Peir from Kyle
Road. Pabay Island in background
Broadford Hospital overlooking the Bay
Sport on Broadford Bay, with Waterloo village in the
background
Waterloo Village from Broadford Peir (Railway Track
remains) Office a' Phost agus Banca Na Alba. Broadford Post Office & Bank
Broadford Hotel (On the Elgol
road) with Ben a' Cailleach. The Elgol road overlooking Broadford with mainland in the background
The road to Elgol (A881), past hotel, is well the effort. 13 glorious miles of mountain & sea views. About a mile on you pass, on the right, the ruined church of Kilchrist (Christchurch). On the right are the ruins of what was a brickmaking factory with it's own railweay track to Broadford peir.
Ben A' Cailleach at
Broadford.
The mountain road between Broadford and Elgol
Then on through wooded Glen Suardal to Kilbride. Just off the road to your left almost hidden in the undergrowth you will see the Clach na h'Annait. Very little knowledge is known about it but its believed to mark the sight of early Christian worship. Continuing on to the Skye marble quarry at Torrin. The view looking north with a mixture of dwellings to add scale, to the head of loch Slapin, with mighty Bla Bheinn on the left, Glas Ben More (1852') center and, Ben na Cro` on your right. The road rises and twists into the scene.
The village of Torrin and the Cuillins. Site of Skye Marble
At the head of loch Slapin the road crosses on an old military Baillie bridge (a bit hairy), but stop at this point for a spell and enjoy the magnificent mountain and loch view, with Highland cattle wandering freely. In June Irises carpet the scene in yellow. The deep and narrow Glen More, (to your right) ends at Luib on the way north to Sligachan.
Fish Farm on Loch Slapin.
The Army-built Baille Bridge at Loch Slapin
The scene facing you northwards is magnificent. Immediately in front as the stream drops from the mountains in a wooded gully, is Bla Bheinn (3044') with Sgur nan Eag and jagged Sgur Alasdair completing this panorama. A house on the opposite side of the loch, on the climb of the road, gives this scene a grand scale.
Highland Cows by Loch Slapin, near Torrin, with the Black
Cuillins in the background
The river with Sgur Alasdair in the background.
Loch Slapin and the Black Cuillins
The majestic black Cuillins (Sgurr Alasdair) around Loch
Slapin, near
Torrin on the Elgol road
There is quite a stiff climb from here to Elgol but watch for the grand views from the summit. During rainy spells (the usual state) you will also see some of the most complete and brightest rainbows anywhere in these lands. The view eastwards over loch Slapin to the west coast of Sleat (Slate), and loch Eishort at Ord and Taskavaig with the mountains of Knoydart on the mainland. Northwards Ben nan Carn, on the right and Ben na Caillich at Broadford.
At Elgol Pier a small boat plies to land-locked Loch Coruisk (weather permitting). The loch was formed by, melting glaciers and the bottom of the loch is below sea level. The clear views of the Cuillins are the finest as they rise from Loch Scavaig with Sgur nan Eag (3037') on the left is Sgur Alasdair (the jagged mountain, 3309') which is called after Alexander Nicolson, the Sheriff of Portree who first climbed it in 1893. To the right is the opening to Loch Coruisk (the water quarry) and the volcanic shaped Sgur Stri (1623') on the right. A majestic view indeed. To the far left is the island of Soy and its highest peak, Ben Bhreac (Heathery Mountain).
You pass few dwellings and are surprised to find quite a well- built stone school near the shore. The road drops quite suddenly. If at all possible, take the ferry to Coruisk (take weather gear). Coruisk is land-locked with the Cuillins trapping you in with a circle of mountains, all around 3000' high with just the narrow mouth to allow you back out again.
Elgol School, by the shore
View from Elgol towards Loch
Coruisk
Elgol Peir with Isle Of Rhum offshore
Views from Elgol shoreline towards the Cuillins
Likewise, do not just hang about at Elgol (pronounced El-ek-ol), unless just just want to walk along the shoreline, but take the small side road to the opposite shore at Glasnakille and you will find some magnificent scenery and in the right light be rewarded with very 'moody' pictures. There is a cave where (it is said) Prince Charlie hid during his escape. There are two Duns. Dun Ciath to the north and Dubh Grugaig just to the south. Both are difficult to approach.
The side road to Dun Caith and Dubh Grugaig.
This is a 26 miles round trip back to the main road at Broadford but never boring. Then continue northwards on the A850. On your left is the peak of Ben Na Caillich (Old woman's mountain) and to the right, views across loch and Sea, with the Islands of Scalpy and little Pabay (Monk's Island) filling the gap between the Atlantic and the mainland. On the road to Sligachan there are nice sea views to the mainland and the isle of Scalpy around Luib (loop) to Sconser where a ferry plies to the Isle of Raasay (Duncaan 1455'). Then alongside Loch Ainort to where the new road curves past the waterfall and climbs above Loch Ainort. A moments stop gives grand views seaward, then past Sconser to Sligachan, where the roads splits two ways, for either Dunvegan or Portree.
A Blackhouse. On the Broadford-Sligachan road
On the road between Broadford and Sligachan
SLIGACHAN: (Slik-ah-chan, ways/roads i.e. Junction). The battle of Glen Sligachan took place here in 1395. Here there is only Sligachan Hotel (Hill climber's watering hole) and a gift shop, but with a grand view of the Red and Black Cuillins. The new bridge sweeps past but stop in the layby and goes down to the old bridge with it's magnificent setting of the Cuillins and the fast flowing Alt Dearg More (Big Red Stream) as it drops into Loch Sligachan. The two immediate recognised peaks are, to the south, Glamig (2542') Red Cuillins and Marsco (2414') Black Cuillins, seen in distance ahead of the river. With the main peaks of the Cuillins completing the scene.
You can have a walk on the path that traverses Glen Sligachan, towards Marsco, which leads back to Elgol, 8 miles. However there are some dangerous spots and great care must be taken.
The Red Cuillins at Sligachan. Ben
Dearg. Ben Dearg from the old road bridge
The path going off into
the distance is the hard walk to Loch Slappin.
Marsco and the river Sligchan in spate
The Red Cuilins looking towards Loch Slapin.
Sligachan Hotel and old road bridge
Sligachan road junction from the Portree road. Dunvegan is
to
the left by the car and the new road bridge
The Black Cuilins from Sligachan Hotel, on the Dunvegan
road
I will continue North via Dunvegan, but describe the road to Portree later.
Following the A855 road NW through Glen Drynoch you can look back on the Red and Black Cuillins that now start to reach eye level on your horizon. Glamig dominates with its `red` volcano shape.