THE ISLAND OF MULL
And IONA

two-day visit on Motorbike in the late 70's

Approximate Miles

              Corrynachenchy                      2
                   Salen                                          6
                   Tobermory                              22
                   Dervaig                                    27
                   Calgary                                    31
                   Kilninian                                  36
                   Oskamull                                  43
                   Killiechronan                           48
                   8073/B8035 Junction              49
                   Balnahard                                55
                   Balevulin                                  60
                   B8035/A849 Junction             65
                   Bunessan                                 71
                   Fionphort (Ferry to Iona)       85
                   A849/B8035 Junction            105
                   Craignure via A849                123

Macraynes' Ferries run a number of times a day across the Firth of Lorne, to Craignure on the southeastern tip of Mull. Having traveled overnight by train from London and arriving in Oban between 9 & 10 am, I took the 9.45am ferry over to Mull. The crossing only takes 45 minutes. It's probably gives the best views of Oban you can get. You pass a number of small islets with Kerrera, the largest, immediately in front of Oban, which makes the Bay a safe haven for ships sheltering from the wild Atlantic. Looking north across Loch Linnhe is the island of Lismore (Liss = Garden, More = Big), which also has a ferry direct from Oban.

To the west you follow the coast of Mull and then pass the tip of Lismore and Duart Point and the magnificent view of Duart Castle on its high rocky cliff top, jutting out into the sea. Then you turn inland and Duart Bay and soon come to stop at the Pier. Watch for some nice pictures when the sun sparkles on the sea and contrasts with the mountains and shades of green of the forests.

A Ferry from Tobermorey to Oban within sight of  Duart Castle
with the hills of Morven in the background

Duart Castle

Off the Ferry and onto the A849 which starts 36 miles south & west at Fionnphort and, the ferry to Iona. Here we head north for Tobermory (24 miles) where it is intended to stay two days (one night) to explore the Island. The A893 is a single track road, but isn't that wide and some places do require you to pull over to the left to let something pass the other way. You are following the Sound of Mull and the mainland at Morvern but you only glimps occasional sighting of the sea but have nice mountain views.

The road twists and turns sharply at times but there is a nice colouring of fields and grassland with some tree-lined stretches and is very enjoyable.

The best view is just beyond Garmony (Heathery cutting) looking over a green plain with Lochaline and it's pier, sitting below the Morvern Mountains with the gully of Loch Aline going into the distance. A track leads off to the left that will take you directly to the coast.

 

On the road between Salen and Tobermory

Now past Pennygown and the small Airport and to the road junction at Salan (The heel), with the B8035 that juts across to Loch na Keil and the shortcut to Fionnphort when you are coming from Tobermory. The road sits in a shady area set in a Bay off the Sound with Rhua More (Great Promontory) jutting out into the sound. Hence, the name (Heel).

A mile on is Arnos Castle & Park (Shore side of road). The 14th century castle was the seat of the Lord of the Isles and now a ruin. Along with the park, which has a waterfall and woodland picnic areas set among rhododendrons, there are grand views across the Sound of Mull.

A 'C' road goes off to the left on a long 'empty' moorland drive to Dervaig, to the west of Tobermoray.

The final 10 miles only has one tiny hamlet (Ardnacros (Height of the cross)). About 3 miles on and the road is just a winding and twisting formation until you start to see Calve Island in between Morvern and Mull and the narrow strip of the sound with the mountains of Ardnamurchan far in the background. You twist and turn through a nice green area and finally drop into Tobermory.

Tobermory: (Gaelic Tober a'Mhairie, The Well of Mary. is the same as Marylebone. French, Marie La Bon. This is a one-road town set on the curve of the Bay. The houses and shops are brightly painted in Blues, reds, greens and yellows and makes for a nice show in bright sunlight against the dark hillside and loch. The town is probably best known for the 'treasure' that is supposed to be at the bottom of the bay after a Spanish ship was destroyed during one of the battles in the area. This story is depicted in the song 'Tobermory Bay'.

It isn't difficult to find B&B as virtually every house along the front has a sign outside their door. Of course you can use on of the excellent hotels if need be.

The sheltered beach has nice soft sand and becomes a suntrap giving excellent bathing and swimming. There is always a flurry of boats and ships on the move or tied up to the pier, which has a nice clock tower at the town end. There is a drive-in forest-park with picnic areas.

 
Entering Tobermory's main street.                         Tobermory pier & Clock Tower

Fishermen just arrived at Tobermory pier

 
The colour frontages along the main street

 
The harbour and small beach capture the afternoon sunlight.

Tobermory From the road to Dervaig. The mainland hills of Morven to the north

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