COBBLER'S PAGE

Now that the fine weather has arrived, holidays are about to be taken and the camera used more it is time to check the stock of film. Should I go for a more prestigious film with a fancy name which no longer has chrome in it or stick to Konicachrome the club film? Price is certainly a big factor. 

A 30 metre length can vary from the club price to £74 for the no chrome variety. The choice of bulk material is limited in its spread and availability. The resulting colours are not as obviously different as some tests would suggest. With a standardised E6 emulsion and process one would expect results to be similar when using the same ASA. But with the manufacturers tolerance,the variety of lenses and cameras, and tolerance in the chemical formula being stretched to the limit by home brewers, kits and processing houses results from bulk film can  be far from standard or representative of one make against another. To buy a loaded pre-paid cassette of film works out more expensive (not much more in some cases) but you probably buying into a more standardised result. By doing this you are missing out. Doing it all yourself, though mechanical,can be an enjoyable and satisfying end to the photographic chain. My own choice is to have bulk lot of Konica and buy cassettes of pre-paid material as needed for those special jobs that require faster or slower film etc. Then I favour Agfa products which have good neutral colours, a fast process turn round, and are returned mounted in CS type mounts which suit my projector system. I have always found Konica film satisfactory when processed properly in kits or home brew but colour rendering can be variable. I have been asked to test the Rayco E6 kit over the next few months I intend to do this using three different types of film and my usual processing routine. 

Hopefully the results will justify Rayco's reputation for supplying first rate kits and materials for the DIY photographer. 

My latest venture into the darkroom has been to print some infra¬red shots on to matt paper. I used Kentmere matt bromide single weight paper, grade 2 and 4, developed in a PQ developer.  I can recommend this paper it has a good black and is really matt. There is only one problem - both sides of the paper seem identical under the safelight, it is impossible to tell by looking at the surface which is the sensitive side. Even the disgusting habit of touching the corner with your tongue gives no clue. Looking for the usual up curve of the paper did not work as it is very flat and in fact proved to be opposite to the rule. The very slight upward curve reversing to a definite curve the other way when put into the developer. 

If anyone has a foolproof idea for determining the emulsion side I would be interested to hear it. 

THE LIBRARY

A duplicated list of all the contents sheets from the magazines DARKROOM USER and DARKROOM TECHNIQUES that the club holds has been drawn up and is now available to Area Leaders and anyone else willing to pay the duplicating and postage costs (approx. £2.00). As an example the Darkroom Techniques for Sept/Oct.1993 Vol.14 No 5 includes the following items; 

 Advanced zone system colour filter use.
 Pseudosolarization B & W.
 Professional Portfolio: Rajasthan, India.
Light and Colour; Controlling colour.
Tricolour Printing; Dye Transfer 111. 
Suggested Approach to B/W Printing. 
Large Format Infra Red 111, Processing & Printing. Photographing Rural Landscapes.
Photo Chemistry (usually very technical but interesting).
 
View Cameras and Hand held Meters.

        Product News.


Being American some of the topics and formulae are academic because of place and chemical differences. For instance, Pseudo solarization produces some delightful results but uses Dektol as a base, Kodak S30 stabilizer and S2. With a little thought it can be worked out what the equalivalent weights and measures are but it becomes more academic if you rely on bought chemicals in a ready made formula.

 

Slide Duplication Editorial CRCMain

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