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KIT PROCESSING (Continued) -
Working
Procedure (3)
LOADING
FILM INTO TANK & PROCESSING
If you have a darkroom then this is a
straight forward operation. However for those with no
darkroom the best procedure is to use a film changing
bag. As you won't be able to see what you are doing a
number of dummy runs will soon get you used to the
routine.
Prepare the film cassettes before hand.
After cutting the leader (between two sprocket holes) to
a straight line, it is advised to snip the end corners of
the film. This makes it easier for the film to be pushed
into the start of the spiral theads. This works better
too if the spiral is warmed beforehand. Place the empty
tank bottom to the left of the changing bag and the lid
& cap to the right. Place the film cassette(s)
nearest to you. It is a good idea to have small scissors
inside, for cutting the film off the end of the spindal,
once it is loaded. While changing bags are pretty light
tight it is best to play safe and work in the shade.
Make sure your arms are well into the bag and that the
two sets of elesticated bands are tight to your arm and
wrist. Feel for the first cassette and pull/twist off the
cap and take the film out. Making sure it is reasonably
wrapped around the spindle. With the spiral in one hand,
feel for the two opening slots at the start of the
spiral, making sure they are level, and ease the start of
the film into the opening. Gently push as much of the
film as necessary to get a good grip then with the spiral
in both hands make too & fro twisting movements and
the film will automatically be pulled/pushed into the
whole of the spiral. Make sure the 'tail' end of the film
is evenly pushed as far as possible into the spiral and
then place the spiral into the tank, making sure there is
nothing else in the tank, and that the spiral sits
squarely inside. The film should spiral 'inwards' in a
clockwise diection. Then fit the lid onto the tank.
Some lids have a screw cap, while others are 'push-on',
whichever, make sure the lid is firmly fitted before
taking the tank into daylight. The lid shouldn't move. It
should be as one with the body. The tank can now be
placed into the water bath for the 'minimum' 15 minutes
pre-heat. If you are using a processing machine, fit the
tank and switch the motor on for the duration.
1st Developer: With everything in place
and a last check of the temperatures you are now ready to
start processing. With the tank in the sink, take the
bottle of 1st developer to the tank and pour in the
contents, as smoothly and swiftly as possible. Fit the
cap and give two inverse agitations within 30secs and
stand the tank in the water bath. Immediately start the
timer which has been set for the described duration. Keep
the developer bottle and cap in the sink With the tank in
the water bath and the timer going, inverse agitate at 30
seconds and immediately stand the tank back into the
water bath. Continue this procedure out until appx. 15
seconds before time up then pour contents of the tank
back into the 1st developer bottle. Place the bottle back
into the water bath. A small plastic funnel will help
when pouring the chemicals back into their bottles. The
funnel will require a thorough swill before using with
the following developers.
1st. Wash: Using the
jug, give 'three' fillings and emptying of wash water,
within 60 seconds. Then with the timer set for the
washing stage (usually 3 mintes). Fill the tank and
inverse agitate at 30 seconds for the minute and continue
the same procedure for the full three minutes. N.B.
Washing times are the 'minimum' so a minute or two longer
won't do any harm. No carry-over of developer is allowed.
Any errors at this stage 'permanenty' affects the final
result. This is generally a green cast and/or muddy
shadows.
Colour Developer:
Repeat the procedure as for 1st developer.
Rinse: Unlike the full
wash procedure, the rinse means what it says! Simply fill
the tank twice with clean water and drain. Some carry
over is important for the Blix stage. The amount in the
emulsion will be sufficient. Drain the tank, set the
timer for the Colour development time. Pour in the Colour
developer as soon as possible and place the tank back
into the water bath and start the developing stage.
Blix: Repeat the
procedure as for both developers.
Final Wash: This MUST be thorough. Give
three or four fills of clean water within the first
minute. Start timer (for 4 minutes) and give four chages
of water, with inverse agitation at 30 seconds. A minute
or two longer will do no harm. Alternatively: At this
stage the lid can be removed and replace inverse
agitation by 'twirling' the spiral in the water and every
now and again, remove the spiral from the water and drain
and replace back into the tank, with a twisting or
'dunking' movement. This will guarantee a very thorough
wash.
Stabilizer: Fill the tank and agitate
for the first 15secs and leave for the full minute
duration. Do not wash film after this stage. Remove the
film from the spiral and with a film 'squeegy' give one
good wipe of the whole film. The film is now ready to be
hung up to dry.
Drying: Natural drying in a well aired
and dust free room is best. Two film clips will be
required per film. One to hang the film up with and the
other (a weighted film clip) at the bottom to keep the
film taught, for even drying and to avoid curling.
Never attempt to cut the film into frames while it is
still wet. If you like to polish your film, leave it
until next day so that the stabiliser will have done its
job thoroughly and the film emulsion will be hard enough
to avoid any serious scratching.
We all have our own way and methods of doing things but
if you follow these 'basic' instructions and create a
working procedure, you will have every chance of getting
constant resluts, everytime
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