- KIT PROCESSING (Continued) -

Working Procedure (3)

LOADING FILM INTO TANK & PROCESSING

If you have a darkroom then this is a straight forward operation. However for those with no darkroom the best procedure is to use a film changing bag. As you won't be able to see what you are doing a number of dummy runs will soon get you used to the routine.

Prepare the film cassettes before hand. After cutting the leader (between two sprocket holes) to a straight line, it is advised to snip the end corners of the film. This makes it easier for the film to be pushed into the start of the spiral theads. This works better too if the spiral is warmed beforehand. Place the empty tank bottom to the left of the changing bag and the lid & cap to the right. Place the film cassette(s) nearest to you. It is a good idea to have small scissors inside, for cutting the film off the end of the spindal, once it is loaded. While changing bags are pretty light tight it is best to play safe and work in the shade.

Make sure your arms are well into the bag and that the two sets of elesticated bands are tight to your arm and wrist. Feel for the first cassette and pull/twist off the cap and take the film out. Making sure it is reasonably wrapped around the spindle. With the spiral in one hand, feel for the two opening slots at the start of the spiral, making sure they are level, and ease the start of the film into the opening. Gently push as much of the film as necessary to get a good grip then with the spiral in both hands make too & fro twisting movements and the film will automatically be pulled/pushed into the whole of the spiral. Make sure the 'tail' end of the film is evenly pushed as far as possible into the spiral and then place the spiral into the tank, making sure there is nothing else in the tank, and that the spiral sits squarely inside. The film should spiral 'inwards' in a clockwise diection. Then fit the lid onto the tank.

Some lids have a screw cap, while others are 'push-on', whichever, make sure the lid is firmly fitted before taking the tank into daylight. The lid shouldn't move. It should be as one with the body. The tank can now be placed into the water bath for the 'minimum' 15 minutes pre-heat. If you are using a processing machine, fit the tank and switch the motor on for the duration.

1st Developer: With everything in place and a last check of the temperatures you are now ready to start processing. With the tank in the sink, take the bottle of 1st developer to the tank and pour in the contents, as smoothly and swiftly as possible. Fit the cap and give two inverse agitations within 30secs and stand the tank in the water bath. Immediately start the timer which has been set for the described duration. Keep the developer bottle and cap in the sink With the tank in the water bath and the timer going, inverse agitate at 30 seconds and immediately stand the tank back into the water bath. Continue this procedure out until appx. 15 seconds before time up then pour contents of the tank back into the 1st developer bottle. Place the bottle back into the water bath. A small plastic funnel will help when pouring the chemicals back into their bottles. The funnel will require a thorough swill before using with the following developers.

1st. Wash: Using the jug, give 'three' fillings and emptying of wash water, within 60 seconds. Then with the timer set for the washing stage (usually 3 mintes). Fill the tank and inverse agitate at 30 seconds for the minute and continue the same procedure for the full three minutes. N.B. Washing times are the 'minimum' so a minute or two longer won't do any harm. No carry-over of developer is allowed. Any errors at this stage 'permanenty' affects the final result. This is generally a green cast and/or muddy shadows.

Colour Developer: Repeat the procedure as for 1st developer.

Rinse: Unlike the full wash procedure, the rinse means what it says! Simply fill the tank twice with clean water and drain. Some carry over is important for the Blix stage. The amount in the emulsion will be sufficient. Drain the tank, set the timer for the Colour development time. Pour in the Colour developer as soon as possible and place the tank back into the water bath and start the developing stage.

Blix: Repeat the procedure as for both developers.

Final Wash: This MUST be thorough. Give three or four fills of clean water within the first minute. Start timer (for 4 minutes) and give four chages of water, with inverse agitation at 30 seconds. A minute or two longer will do no harm. Alternatively: At this stage the lid can be removed and replace inverse agitation by 'twirling' the spiral in the water and every now and again, remove the spiral from the water and drain and replace back into the tank, with a twisting or 'dunking' movement. This will guarantee a very thorough wash.

Stabilizer: Fill the tank and agitate for the first 15secs and leave for the full minute duration. Do not wash film after this stage. Remove the film from the spiral and with a film 'squeegy' give one good wipe of the whole film. The film is now ready to be hung up to dry.

Drying: Natural drying in a well aired and dust free room is best. Two film clips will be required per film. One to hang the film up with and the other (a weighted film clip) at the bottom to keep the film taught, for even drying and to avoid curling.

Never attempt to cut the film into frames while it is still wet. If you like to polish your film, leave it until next day so that the stabiliser will have done its job thoroughly and the film emulsion will be hard enough to avoid any serious scratching.

We all have our own way and methods of doing things but if you follow these 'basic' instructions and create a working procedure, you will have every chance of getting constant resluts, everytime