TECHNIQUE Pt Two

By Bert Sanders

It cannot be overemphasised that I Technique I, or should I say lack of it, is the cause of most of the processing problems that
beset members causing great anguish and frustration. What it means in simple terms is that every move in the complete process must
be deliberate and strictly according to the instructions laid down in the manufacturers instructions or the instructions accompanying
any processing kit or formula. I make no apologies for repeating myself as the process must be correctly carried out first time and
every time. I remember once reading on the front cover of an instruction book for plain rather complex dedicated flashgun. "YOU
HAVE TRIED IT YOUR WAY, NOW TRY IT OLJRS". Never have I read such a profound statement as usually the instruction book
is the last item to be looked at. In other words, what the manufacturer was saying was "You've messed about enough, now do it
correctly", and that's what success is all about, "Doing it Correctly".

It is a strange phenomenon, but one is so eager to see the final result that the instructions are, more often than not, just glossed over
if one has no knowledge of the product, and not looked at all if one has some knowledge of the product. I know I have been guilty of
it myself. So never assume that things will turn out right and never give in to the urge that the little bit extra will work. As I have
already said, chemistry is a very exciting science and slapdash methods will always end in disappointing results.

So, let us start at the beginning and deal step by step with one of the most popular starter processing kits on the market. Made by
Photo Technology of Potters Bar. The 'Chrome Six' kit as a leader in the field of Photo Technology don' t rest on their laurels, they are
up front in processing research all the time. The first consideration in the operation towards processing of C.R. film is a processing
tank. I would recommend that you purchase the best you can afford. I find that the Paterson range of tanks suit me fine. I have three,
a Paterson Major 11, 300cc, which I have had for many years and is ideal for the one off cassette or for tests. I also have a Paterson 4
two reel 500ml and a Paterson System 4, 3 reel 1000ml. The Chrome-Six kit comes in 600ml, 1200ml and 5 litre sizes so I am always sure
that I am not short of solution.

Keep your tanks spotlessly clean. Even if you final wash your film in the tank don\rquote t assume that it is clean, rinse again under
running water, the tank, spirals, lid and seals, wipe dry with a clean cloth and stand to dry completely in a warm atmosphere. Keep
your tanks in a dust proof box when not in use. When you do require a tank for processing, warm it slightly to make sure that there is
no moisture in the spirals, which will cause the film to jam when loading.

Purchase the best quality equipment you can afford. Don't use kitchen measures, they are not accurate enough. Your measurement
of solutions must be accurate as must your temperatures. Good quality mercury thermometers graduated from -5 deg. cent. to 60 deg.
cent. or thereabouts are quite reasonable and easily obtainable. Accurate graduated measures may be purchased from any good
photographic dealer and again get the best you can afford. 600ml or preferably 1000ml. A plastic funnel, ribbed on the outside so that it
wont cause back pressure in the bottles when returning solutions. I find that it is much easier and less messy, and much quicker to
empty solutions from the tank into a jug and then into the bottle. Here, even though we have an extra step in the chain of cross
contamination, if each solution has its own utensils and they are kept scrupulously clean you should experience no problems in that
department. Label each utensil and bottle clearly with its contents or its use. Keep the jug and bottle of lst Dev. together at all times,
the same going for all the other solutions as well.

We shall now assume that you are going to process some CR film. You have loaded your tank, cleared the kitchen, set out your
equipment in the order it is going to be used and, as advised in Part 1, tried a dummy run or two using empty tanks and plain water so
that you will have discovered that it is all quite easy really following the instructions and controlling the temperature. Fill up a bowl
with clean water and with hot water bring up to the required temperature. Place your bottles of chemicals in the water and leave them
stand until the solutions in the bottles have reached the required temperature. You will most probably have to add more hot water to
maintain the temperature.

I will now quote from the instructions supplied with the Chome-Six kit, and take you step by step enlarging upon the process if
necessary as we go along:-

1. Preheat the tank and film by filling the tank with clean water at a temperature of 38 deg cent for one minute standing the tank in a
water bath at the same temperature. (This softens the gelatine base of the film so that the chemicals can get to work) (The preheat
water is usually coloured by dyes out of the film and is quite normal).

2. After emptying the preheat water out of the tank pour in the first developer. Tap the tank gently on a hard surface to dislodge any
air bubbles adhering to the film then immediately agitate. (I prefer the inversion method. Agitate continuously for the first ten seconds
and then for five seconds every half minute) stand the tank in the water bath throughout the processing between agitation. Develop
for 6 1/2 mins at 38 deg cent including the time taken (10 to 20 sees) to pour out the\tab developer. Retain the developer for further use.
Pour from the tank straight into the first dev jug when it can be poured into the first dev bottle between agitations at a later stage in
the process.

3. Wash the film for two mintes at least in four changes of clean water at 34 - 42 deg cent and drain the tank. (A clean bucket of water
at about this temperature can be stood in the sink ready for washing.) Continuous agitation during the Washing stages is recommended.

4. Pour in Colour developer. Agitate continually for the first ten secs then for five sees every half minute placing tank in water bath
between agitations. Develop for 6 mins at 38 deg cent including pouring out time. Retain developer for further use.

5. Rinse with 3 changes of Water for at least one minute and drain tank.

6. Pour in Bleach Fix. Agitate continuously for one minute then five seconds every half minute for ten minutes. Extra time will do no harm.
Pour out bleachfix and retain for re-use.

7. Wash film in clean water for 4 minutes at 34-43 deg cent using at least 6 complete changes. Add 2 few drops of wetting agent to the
final wash (Monocolor 326).

8. Remove spiral containing film from tank and shake off excess water. Hang film to dry in a warm dust free atmosphere. The film may be
heat dried but the temperature must not exceed 60 deg cent. Care must be used when using a hair drier to avoid local overheating.

The transparent parts of the film will have a milky appearance when wet, which will clear as the film dries out.

The instructions contained in the Chrome Six kit are very comprehensive and go into detail about methods, times and temperatures,
handling mixing, capacity of solutions, appearance, keeping properties, push/pull processing, rotary processors and trouble shooting.
The instruction sheet alone is a mine of information and in my opinion worth the cost of the first kit to a beginner.

There are no hard and fast rules in developing a sound technique. Technique improves with reitition, in other words 'Practice makes
Master'. Once you have mastered it don' deviate unless you intend to experiment, when you must keep detailed notes of your
experiments and of every move you make in that experiment so that you can repeat it exactly if you so desire.

Make allowances as to when you start the clock i.e. when you start pouring the developer into the tank or just as the tank is full.
Measure out the correct amount of solution into the respective jug so that no time is wasted in dribbling to prevent overflow and
wastage of solutions. When using a jug one can upend the tank over the jug for quicker emptying of the tank. I find it easier and more
accurate to zero the clock at the beginning of each part of the process and keep a large white card with the instructions printed on in
bold letters to keep ones memory refreshed. Some commit the instructions to memory and some make a tape of the complete process so
that one has verbal instruct-ions correctly timed for the whole process from beginning to end. Overalls of some sort should be worn so
that you don\rquote t stain or damage your clothes. If wearing a white coat grabs you, do so by all means it all helps in creating the
right atmosphere for developing a sound technique.

THE END